Sushi Omakase, 9213 Sierra College Boulevard, Suite 160, Roseville, 916-749-4987, sushiomakase.com

Dispelling the notion that high school buddies can’t make it as business partners, Justin Nicholson and Sean Kattner opened their second Sushi Omakase restaurant in August of 2017. The two friends launched the first Omakase, which loosely translated means “leave it up to the chef,” in Gilroy eight years ago. Not too shabby for a couple of thirty-somethings from Gilroy.

I asked my server, Alyssa, for recommendations, and she readily obliged with some crowd favorites, number one being Omakase’s Heart Attack Tempura. Maybe it’s called  “heart attack” due to the fried tempura and cream cheese combo, or perhaps it’s the lip-stinging and lip-smacking jalapeño stuffed with spicy tuna accompanied by their partner in pain and pleasure: sriracha mayo. Whatever the genesis for naming it, this dish will surely get your attention.

About the time I extinguished the fire, I was presented with Dragon Balls. And yes, a theme was starting to expose itself, and it had nothing to do with a flying lizard’s anatomy. These golden-fried orbs of wonton encased salmon, crab, and scallions were detailed with the dynamic duo of sriracha mayo and sweet soy sauce.

I thought a refreshing green salad with protein would chill the heat from the earlier bites. Somehow when I ordered the squid salad with mountain vegetables, however, my eyes glanced past the prefix “spicy.” Not to worry, this field of greens—packed with tender, chili-oil-marinated squid ribbons, wood ear mushrooms, wakame, and paper-thin cucumber slices also had a softer side: a creamy soy-ginger and peanut dressing that could be served with anything from artichokes to zeppole. I wasn’t above begging for the recipe, or a quart to go… 

Next, after eyeballing the vast selection of maki rolls, I decided to go all in with some surf and turf, as in the Surf and Turf Roll—aka, “the king of our rolls, featuring fresh Kobe beef on top of a shrimp tempura, crab avocado roll with kanpai dressing, sprinkled with cilantro and delicious fresh wasabi,” according to the menu. Served with a mound of greens and Kobe beef nigiri, it was all of that and more.

A unique concept caught my eye as I was preparing to order my sushi—the build-your-own roll. If that’s not original enough, Owner Justin says, “You can name it, and we’ll keep it on file for you.” Omakase in reverse!    

Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. (Sunday-Thursday), 11 a.m.-10 p.m. (Friday-Saturday)

Try This: Gilroy Garlic Edamame, Heart Attack Tempura, Poke Bowl, Dragon Balls, Surf and Turf Roll, Charlie Sheen Roll, Tempura Udon Bowl, My Ex-Girlfriend Roll, Ménage À Trois

Drinks: Beer and wine

Tab: $$

Heads-Up: Happy Hour all day Saturday and Sunday includes discounts on drinks; lunch specials served daily from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; spacious, dog-friendly patio; live music on Saturday nights; build-your-own roll and name it; multiple TVs; Kanpai Rewards program offers discounts for regular customers; online ordering and catering available

By Lorn Randall

Photos by DANTE FONTANA