Broderick Roadhouse, 1516 Eureka Road, Roseville, 916-771-2722, broderickroadhouse.com

If you’ve traveled to, and enjoyed, “roadhouses”—especially in the South or even Southwest—where good-looking bartenders serve up your favorite burgers and beverages as the jukebox belts out Hank Williams Jr., then Broderick Roadhouse in Roseville is just what you’re looking for. Dressed in Broderick tanks and T-shirts emblazoned with catchy slogans like “The Only Cash I Need is Johnny,” the servers dish up plenty of Southern hospitality, with tasty food to boot.  

 The burger selection is not what you’d expect, even in Texas, but more on that later. The thing I was struck by initially were the fries. As someone who regularly battles the carbohydrate dilema—typically French fries, like bread, are generally left to languish untouched on their way to carb heaven—my plate here told a different tale. Broderick takes pride in their fries, and it shows in both presentation and taste. Topping the “Specialty Fries” list is something that unequivocally should not work: Bành Mì Fries. Imagine the trendy Vietnamese sandwich—but with roasted “pulled” pork and tangy-sweet pickled vegetables crowning a mountain of crispily fried potato sticks, and you have one of Broderick’s most popular, and delish, dishes. They also have a “roadhouse twist” on poutine that I found hard to push away from—Gravy Fries, featuring peppery brown house-made beef gravy and cheddar cheese that’ll make you forget about those Canadian cheese curd originals.

 Ahh yes, I mentioned burgers, didn’t I? They’ve got them, and if it’s unique you seek, this is the place. How about a bison, lamb, duck, or boar patty, if you’re bored with beef? Vegetarian? Mix and match if you please. I opted for the Johnny Cash—an oversized 100-percent Angus beef patty served to your desired doneness, with bacon, white cheddar, sweet-spicy peppers, fried onion crisps, and barbecue sauce. Paired with fries (I recommend an upgrade even though the Naked Fries are fantastic), and you’re in for a substantial grub session. As a matter of fact, almost nothing that comes out of the kitchen could be designated “diet-friendly”—though they do serve a handful of vegan offerings, including mac & cheese made with gluten-free pasta and “bacon” bits, a “No Egg Salad Sandwich,” and a tofu scramble during brunch.   

 If you manage to get through the main course, there are sweet treats available for those who dare. I dared. Bread pudding with rich caramel sauce, all made in-house, was my foray into the decadent side. Fortunately, it travels well...   

Hours:  10 a.m.-10 p.m. (Saturday-Sunday), 11 a.m.-10 p.m. (Monday-Friday)

Try This: Bành Mì Fries, Broderick Jumbo Wings, Johnny Cash Burger, Lamb Burger, Vegan Mac & Cheese, Flank Steak Salad, Corned Beef Hash, Bread Pudding, Bourbon Peanut Banana Banana Shake

Alcohol: Full bar; beer, wine, cocktails, and “boozy shakes”

Tab: $$

Heads-Up: Happy Hour (Monday–Friday from 3-6 p.m.) includes 1/2 off all fries and drink specials; numerous gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan offerings, including buns; brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. - 3 p.m.; almost everything is made in-house from scratch (pickles, dressings, veggie patties, desserts, etc.); additional locations in Midtown, West Sacramento, and Walnut Creek with one in Folsom slated to open this spring 

By Lorn Randall