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Dining Out: Cantina Pedregal

185 Placerville Road, Suite 150, Folsom, 916-790-8479, cantinapedregal.com
cantinapedregal

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. (daily)

TRY THIS: Oysters on the Half Shell, Tostadas y Gorditas, Sope de Huitlacoche, Esquites, Coliflor Asada, Cortadillo, Chicharron de Porchetta, Choco Flan  

DRINKS: Full bar; beer, wine, & cocktails

TAB: $$

HEADS-UP: Daily precopeo (happy) hour in the bar area from 3-5 p.m. with discounted beer, wine, and special cocktails; vegan options; menu is meant to be enjoyed family-style; ambiance is upscale but still family-friendly; everything is house-made, including the tortillas, which are crafted using daily-made masa; lunch menu features items like tacos and smaller portions; reservations accepted

Esquites

The Mayans believed humans were forged from maize. Corn, transformed into innumerable uses, shapes both the cultural and culinary foundations upon which one of the world’s most beloved cuisines has been built. But despite being a cornerstone of Mexican culture, few restaurants prepare maize (corn) in all its traditional expressions.

As I walked by the kitchen of what I’m sure will become a staple for area epicureans, Cantina Pedregal, the mountainous pile of fresh-delivered corn from Mexico assured me that I was in for something traditional but far from ordinary.

Coliflor Asada

Cortadillo

Choco Flan

Everything about Cantina Pedregal conveys two things: identity and excellence. A collaborative effort between the Northern Mexico natives and restauranteurs behind Nixtaco—Cinthia Martinez and Patricio Wise—and Brad Cecchi and Clay Nutting of Canon, the atmosphere is a perfect blend of both Michelin-recognized restaurants.  

On our visit, the staff—from the hostess to the bussers—held an (albeit young) air of sophistication and attention one would expect from fine dining, while the atmosphere and menu are unmistakably and deeply rooted in Northern Mexico—and in the most exceptional way. If Diego Rivera was a chef instead of a painter, he may have designed a menu of similar beauty and deliciousness.

As my family was seated, we were pleased to discover that the restaurant, though upscale, still feels family-friendly.

“Just like Italians have pasta and ‘pasta’ takes hundreds of forms—spaghetti, lasagna, ravioli, tortellini, etc.—corn in Mexico is the same, with hundreds of different foods that are all ‘corn,’” our waiter, Marco, stated while we perused the menu.

Soon, Marco returned with tostadas and salsas and, to my surprise, gorditas (think of a small, fat tortilla and you got it), which I’ve never seen served at a regional restaurant, despite being so typical in Mexico. What’s more, everything is made fresh on-site using a blend of yellow and blue corn.

 I was elated to see huitlacoche (weet-la-cho-che) on the menu.  Considered the “truffle of Mexico,” huitlacoche is a fungus that occurs only on corn and is considered a delicacy. Served on top of a sope (another corn variation, very similar to a gordita, or “fat tortilla,” but with toppings), this immediately became my favorite appetizer. I will return just to eat this plate.

Next up was esquites (es-kee-tes), a typical Mexican street food where corn is boiled, seasoned, and served in a cup—only here it’s handsomely served with a decadent serving of bone marrow.

We couldn’t resist ordering the grilled cauliflower (coliflor asada). I will say nothing more than this: It was the best cauliflower I’ve had in my life (though someone less spice crazed as me may find it a little too spicy).  

Finally, in true Mexican tradition, we ordered the cortadillo, always served “family-style.” The diced beef sirloin, cooked in guajillo chili stew with bacon and potatoes, alongside nixtamal tortillas (a traditional corn masa treated with lime), these tacos were top shelf. Major points on the authenticity, once again.

Cantina Pedregal perfectly blends tradition, contemporary cuisine, and an elegant atmosphere cohesively. I was looking forward to its opening and, believe me, it did not disappoint. 

by Ryan Martinez
Photos by Jyo Bhamidipati ©stylereadersmedia. Choco Flan photo by Cinthia Martinez. 


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