Looking for a place to wind down after doing a mall crawl, but the food court isn’t your style? Maybe a top-shelf margarita and some top-shelf guacamole could help with an attitude adjustment? The Galleria at Roseville has just the place: Cantina Laredo. I’ve had my attitude adjusted there a couple of times since discovering them.

Billed on their website as a “Taste of Modern Mexico,” they do feature a couple of interesting variations on “traditional” Mexican restaurant cuisine (whatever traditional means where you’re from).

On a Thursday evening, with a country trio playing in the front of the house, I started with the aforementioned top-shelf guacamole (look for guacamole de guillermo on their printed menu) and chips. Plenty of guac for three people—two avocados, a roasted serrano pepper, onions, garlic, cilantro, and fresh lime juice—and served with their house-made salsa and fresh chips, it’s a meal in itself.

Next, I tried one of the variations I mentioned—camaron poblano asada, an entrée featuring shrimp, mushrooms, and jack cheese stuffed into a roasted poblano pepper and wrapped in fire-charred skirt steak with chimichurri sauce, charred street corn, and cilantro lime rice. It’s a mouthful to say and a bigger mouthful to eat. I liked this dish but there were a lot of flavors competing, which may be too much for some people. I mean it’s steak, shrimp, and roasted poblano pepper…what’s not to like?

In what turned out to be a surprise favorite of mine, I had a vegetarian offering: avocado enchiladas. Served with a tomatillo verde sauce and filled with avocado and artichoke hearts, it was tangy, refreshing, and filling enough for most of us carnivores. A great lunch or light dinner entrée.

By now, my editors are probably tweeting #lorndontorderchurrosagain; sorry ya’ll, I had to do it! Look at the picture and you’ll understand. My order came with three huge churros caked in cinnamon and sugar alongside chocolate-raspberry and creamy mango dipping sauces. It’s a can’t-miss for us churro lovers.

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. (Sunday-Thursday); 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (Friday-Saturday)

Try This: Guacamole de Guillermo, Queso Laredo, Camaron Poblano Asada, Pescado Tacos, Avocado Enchiladas, Carne Asada, Relleno De Camaron, Churros, Tajin Watermelon Rita

Drinks: Full bar; beer, wine, & cocktails

Tab: $$

Heads-Up: Weekday happy hour from 3-6 p.m., kids’ menu; lunch specials; live music Thursdays at 5 p.m., every other Saturday at 8:30 p.m., and Sundays at noon; gluten-free options available on most menu items; sign up for their e-club for specials, including a complimentary appetizer; heated outdoor patio