Tres Calaveras
I like rooting for the good guys—in movies, life, and the crazy restaurant business. You’re never sure who the protagonists are until the plot unfolds. In the case of a new restaurant, the script reveals itself in the form of your dining experience.
The central characters of Tres Calaveras in Cameron Park are sets of brothers and cousins who go out of their way to provide a hero’s welcome.
I trekked up the hill from Roseville to a spot near one of my favorite haunts as a kid: Sam’s Town. Sam’s is long since gone, but the quaint western village mall across the street houses many visit-worthy attractions, including Tres Calaveras.
Shrimp Ceviche; Photo by Dante Fontana © and wholly owned by Style Media Group
I started the festivities with a citrusy and refreshing shrimp ceviche topped with a mountain of fresh avocado. The interplay of lime juice, onions, cilantro, and fresh tomatoes showcased the plump shrimp. Cerveza, por favor!
Chicken Mole; Photo by Dante Fontana © and wholly owned by Style Media Group
The plot thickened in the second act, seriously thickened, as in a rich, dark chocolate chicken mole. I’m an avowed fanatic (and sometimes critic) of mole. The complexity of its character intrigues my palate, and I will (and did) devour a plate of homemade chicken mole like Godzilla devours entire cities. I was like Godzilla on this day. Served with chopped breast meat vs. a leg and thigh quarter, it would particularly appeal to those who don’t like dark meat. Muy bueno!
Birria; Photo by Dante Fontana © and wholly owned by Style Media Group
Act III: birria. If you haven’t heard of or tried birria before, you haven’t been paying attention—it’s become as big a foodie buzzword as charcuterie. Traditionally a stew of goat and chilis, birria can be made with any number of proteins, including the succulent beef and lamb offering at Tres Calaveras. I prefer to have the stewed meat served as a taco with the rich broth served alongside to dip your taco into, but with fresh tortillas in hand, I had no complaints.
Churros; Photo by Dante Fontana © and wholly owned by Style Media Group
Please stop in and see the real stars: Ivan, Marco, Victor, David, Erick, and Jonathan…good guys making great food!
by LORN RANDALL
photos by DANTE FONTANA
Photos by Dante Fontana ©
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