234 Gibson Drive, Suite 100, Roseville, 916-864-9500, eurekarestaurantgroup.com   

I was just reading the “About” page on the website for Eureka! in Roseville. Lofty goals and mission statement to be sure. But with 26 restaurants under their umbrella, I’m guessing it’s not just braggadocio. What Eureka! is not is a big-box, novella-sized-menu establishment with seating for the Smith and Jones family reunions. On the contrary, the restaurant is cozy, comfortable, and efficient. The menu follows suit featuring gastropub-style appetizers; healthy, protein-forward salads; distinctive burgers; and brewhouse-inspired mains, such as blackened fish tacos with mango salsa and fried chicken sliders with chili sauce and slaw.

Fresno Fig Burger

I almost always gravitate to the “starters” menu in a gastropub, and in this situation went with the osso buco riblets. According to my server, the pork shank riblets “are braised for hours in sherry and aromatics”—a process that allows the marrow to melt into the reduced braising liquid, resulting in tender, succulent pork reminiscent of its veal namesake. The “firecracker aioli” condiment provided a piquant counterpunch to the rich marrowbone.

Fish & Chips with Furikake

Next up, fish & chips with furikake. If you’re not familiar with this particular “F” word, get acquainted soon. I found furikake in Hawaii years ago when it was used as a coating to pan sear fish (it’s primary use is as a seasoning for rice) and have been a fan ever since. Eureka! takes the British standard of battered white fish and tops it with the Japanese seasoning to create something very umami. Crispy breading, sesame seeds, briney nori flakes, a touch of sweetness, and moist whitefish produced a memorable adaptation of classic pub fare.

Bourbon Barrel Cake

I happened to be doing research for an article about the best local burgers at the same time I visited Eureka!, so it was my good fortune to find some possibilities for the list. Most notably, the Fresno fig burger. The play on charcuterie in a bun wasn’t lost on me and an obvious inclusion to my list. It may sound odd at first, but if you’ve savored a slice of fromage, marmalade, and prosciutto on crostini…well, you see where I’m going. The burger came with melted goat cheese, fig marmalade, bacon, red onions, arugula, and spicy porter mustard—all recognizable players on the charcuterie playground and a welcome addition to any burger.

One of the more appealing sidebars of the great American bourbon craze popping up in bars everywhere is using the spirit in foods, and one of the best (although not newest) is in desserts. Eureka! scores high marks here for its bourbon barrel cake with bourbon caramel and vanilla bean ice cream. I really wanted to be finished after just one bite, but like Michael Corleone said in Godfather Part III, “Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in.” 

Hours: 10 a.m.-midnight (Saturday-Sunday); 11 a.m.-midnight (Monday-Friday) 

Try This: Osso Buco Riblets, Falafel Bites, Hemp Bowl, Steak Salad, Fresno Fig Burger, Fish & Chips, Rib Eye, Bourbon Barrel Cake

Drinks: Full bar; beer, wine, & cocktails

Tab: $$

Heads-Up: Weekend brunch from 10 a.m.-2 p.m. with $5 mimosas and Bloody Marys; large heated patio with fire pit; vegan options; bar seating; 30 craft beers on tap, including many local favorites, and over 40 small-batch whiskeys; live music on Thursdays; daily happy hour; kids’ menu