Dominick’s has become a bit of a lunchtime staple for locals since it opened in 2004, and I’ve heard plenty of people rave about their sandwiches. In 2006, the eatery expanded to launch a trattoria and bar, and patrons are just as enthusiastic about the dinner options.

My husband and I stopped in on a recent Saturday night to find it absolutely packed and buzzing with the sounds of laughter and conversation; even so, we waited only a few minutes before being shown to our table.

We settled in with the large menu featuring all kinds of homey classics and an impressive lineup of New York-style pizzas and calzones. We made our selections, and in just a few minutes, our soup and salad starters arrived. The soup was a bold and earthy pancetta and lentil, and the crisp house salad came out on a chilled plate—a nice touch for sure.

For an appetizer, we chose calamari fritti (fried calamari) served with a vibrant marinara, and we knew right away that we’d be taking more than half home. The portion size was better suited to feed a family of four rather than two, but the tender pieces of squid were evenly battered and fried to crispy perfection, and we weren’t complaining.  

Up next were the mains. For me, that was fettuccini alla carbonara—al dente fresh pasta with pancetta, onion, creamy egg yolk and nutty Parmesan. Incredibly rich, the smoky qualities of the pancetta paired especially well with the sweetness of the sautéed red onion. My husband went with the pollo scarpariello, which featured floured chicken breast and sausage sautéed with butter, garlic, lemon, white wine and fresh rosemary, served alongside creamy polenta. The bright acidity of lemon and wine was a perfect counterpart to the smooth, creamy polenta. 

For dessert, the toasted almond layer cake immediately lured us in, and it was love at first bite. Similar to tiramisu, the cake’s spongy texture made for a great contrast with the fluffy, creamy layers in between, while the almond flavor was strong enough to make me reminisce about molding with marzipan as a child. 

In fact, there was quite a bit about the experience that reminded me of my childhood, which is just another testament to the actual authenticity of Dominick’s.

By Jennifer Resnicke  //  Photos by Dante Fontana

Dominick’s Italian Market & Deli, 8621 Auburn-Folsom Road
Granite Bay, 916-786-3355.