For years I’ve been searching for a chow mein that isn’t greasy, which is kind of like finding a $2 bill – it’s been known to happen, but it’s certainly unusual.

At first glance, Sunny Garden Restaurant looks like every other Asian eatery. The entire place seats around 50 and tables are adorned with the traditional zodiac symbol paper place mats (admittedly, I took some time to read about my sign and look up my family’s). You may be thinking, “been there, ate that,” but you’ll get your first surprise when you open the menu.

With a stunning 164 options listed – everything from familiar offerings like the light-and-crispy on the outside, decadent-in-the-middle Crab Cheese Puffs, and the mild Egg Drop Soup with silky tofu and crunchy water chestnuts, to enticing new flavors like the spicy Malaysian Curry Tofu – there is something to please both adventurous diners and their more timid friends. On the must-try list is the House Specialty Shanghai Honey Chicken, which comes doused in the sweet and savory sauce and is topped with a generous helping of crisped basil and crunchy pine nuts. If you feel like spicing things up a bit, check out the Thai Spicy Basil Beef with the well-deserved two chili pepper symbols next to its name; this dish isn’t for lightweights.

The menu doesn’t list beverage options (although it’s kind of a blessing considering the multitude of entrée options), but be sure to ask for hot green tea or check out the beer and wine selections. Service is both fast and friendly, and I saw just as many patrons picking up their phone-in orders as those who sat down.

There aren’t many places that can do the “basics” like pot stickers and broccoli beef, just as well as they do the “exotic,” like Boneless Roasted Duck Meat Mu-Shu, or Dry Braised Sole Filet with spicy scallions, but Sunny Garden Restaurant is one of the delicious few.

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Sunny Garden Restaurant, 25085 Blue Ravine Road, Suite 150, Folsom, 916-983-8882, folsomsunnygarden.com.

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