TENDER SLOW-COOKED BEEF BRISKET

The Brisket Book: A Love Story with Recipes by Stephanie Pierson.
Adapted from My Family Table: A Passionate Plea For Home Cooking by John Besh.

(Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2011, $29.99)

• 1 (5- to 6-lb.) beef brisket
• 1/2 cup Dry Rub (recipe follows)

Preheat the smoker to 250 degrees. Lay the brisket in the smoker and smoke for 6 hours, adding wood as needed along the way to maintain a near-perfect 250-degree temperature. It’s important to remember to adjust the dampers to regulate the heat. When the brisket is tender, remove it from the smoker, wrap it in aluminum foil, and place in a 200-degree oven for an additional 2 hours to continue the slow cooking process toward perfection.
To serve, trim away the excess fat (Besh likes to add it to homemade baked beans; it improves the flavor), and slice against the grain. Serves 10

DRY RUB

Besh says, “This rub is quite classic but it works well, too, as a brine for meat and poultry when diluted with enough water to cover – so you’ve got the perfect combination of salty/sweet.
Or, use the dry base as a wet rub, adding just enough olive oil to form a paste. It’s wonderful slathered on a whole leg of lamb.”

• 1 cup brown sugar
• 1 cup Kosher salt
• 1 tbsp. freshly ground
•    black pepper
• 1 tbsp. pimentón
• 1 tbsp. garlic powder
• 1 tbsp. onion powder
• 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

In a small bowl, mix the ingredients together and store in a Mason jar. Tightly sealed, it will keep for about 2 weeks in the refrigerator.
When ready to use, rub the meat well, preferably the night before you cook it. (Just store the rubbed meat well wrapped in plastic in the refrigerator overnight.) Makes about 3 1/2 cups.

BOEGER 2006 RESERVE REFOSCO

The grape variety Refosco is somewhat mysterious, with ancient origins. The viticulturalists at UC Davis have always equated French Mondeuse with Italian Refosco, claiming that in California they were the same variety. Refosco is native to the northeastern part of Italy and produces wines of character, weight and power.

The property Greg and Sue Boeger purchased in 1972 to start their winery was very rich in history. In 1850 it was homesteaded by the Fossati-Lombardo family, just 15 minutes away from James Marshall’s discovery of gold in California. Approaching their 40th anniversary, the Boeger’s are the most recognizable winemakers in El Dorado County. Boeger 2006 Reserve Refosco is a blend of 75-percent Refosco, 20-percent Aglianico and 5-percent Cabernet Sauvignon. Very richly aromatic, this wine has balanced structure with sturdy tannins and very present acidity. Flavors of lush dark berries, vanilla and mild oak make this wine perfect for meaty dishes and most Italian fare.

— Rick Mindermann
Rick is Store Director of Corti Brothers in Sacramento, personal assistant to Darrell Corti, and Culinary Blogger for Corti TV: sites.google.com/site/tvcorti/home/BLOG.