A Day In The Life of Dr. Grover Lee: Owner & Executive Winemaker at Wise Villa Winery
When you think of Placer County, what do you think of? Gold Rush-era towns? Juicy mandarins? Year-round recreation? A fabulous food scene? Well, think again, as there’s something else to be added to the list; nestled within the granite and gold are grapes, including the ones grown at Wise Villa Winery (wisevillawinery.com). Based in Lincoln, Wise Villa was established by Dr. Grover Lee: wine lover, connoisseur, and producer. His award-winning wines are the result of a scientific approach combined with the European romanticism of wine making.
Please tell us about your story so far.
I grew up near Modesto surrounded by vineyards as far as the eye could see. They were our playground and then later, a place of work. If I wanted anything new, I had to work for it, so I was employed at the nearby E. & J. Gallo Winery. This is where I first started learning vine management. In college, I was a scientist but also interested in wine. I would take myself to the library to study grapes and wine production; the science behind it, the bacteriology, and the biochemistry caught my attention. I also had a roommate who worked in a wine shop; he would bring home the ends of bottles of nice European wine, which we’d enjoy. Then, I went to Europe and travelled around France, Germany, and Spain visiting chateaus, meeting wine producers, tasting wine, and learning as much as possible about the whole process. I’m a huge fan of Europe; in fact, both my children spent time studying there at different stages of their education.
Yes, absolutely. Lincoln is a “wine oasis!” It has consistent temperatures, around 90/95 degrees, and is cooler than other parts of the area, dropping nicely during the night. We also have rolling hills, which are perfect for planting vines and an early springtime. In France, I learned about the importance of the terroir, the very earth in which the vines are planted, which was an important factor in establishing my winery in Placer County. Lincoln benefits from an “inversion layer,” which means that, unlike other Californian wine regions, Wise Villa doesn’t suffer from frosts in the winter, which can ruin grape crops and are dreaded by vintners. The grapes grow in an environmental “safe haven” here.
How would you describe your wines?
In Europe, I started to realize the difference between Americans’ and Europeans’ expectations of how wine should taste. Typically, Americans are looking for cocktail-type flavors—sweet and fruity—whereas, typically, Europeans want something they can drink over a long period of time, like an evening meal. We’re aiming for somewhere between the two with ours. We produce 36 different wines and have recreated favorites from across the globe, so there’s something for everyone.
July to September is grape harvest time—the most laborious time of year. The team works on the hills through the night, from 11 p.m.-3 a.m., hand-picking grapes and carefully collecting them. This is the coolest time of the day, so the grapes are plucked at the perfect temperature for cold fermentation—a critical component of our wines. We have approximately 18 varietals of grapes that are planted according to their needs (temperature, drainage, sunlight, etc.) to produce the optimum crop of grapes. Grapes aren’t picked en masse as may be the case at other wineries where machines are used. Even during the night, each bunch is assessed for ripeness before being picked. The team could be returning to each varietal’s vines over several nights before all the grapes are harvested.
I grew up near Modesto surrounded by vineyards as far as the eye could see. They were our playground and then later, a place of work. If I wanted anything new, I had to work for it, so I was employed at the nearby E. & J. Gallo Winery. This is where I first started learning vine management. In college, I was a scientist but also interested in wine. I would take myself to the library to study grapes and wine production; the science behind it, the bacteriology, and the biochemistry caught my attention. I also had a roommate who worked in a wine shop; he would bring home the ends of bottles of nice European wine, which we’d enjoy. Then, I went to Europe and travelled around France, Germany, and Spain visiting chateaus, meeting wine producers, tasting wine, and learning as much as possible about the whole process. I’m a huge fan of Europe; in fact, both my children spent time studying there at different stages of their education.
Lucky you and your kids! California is renowned for its wine, but was there a reason you chose Lincoln over other, more “traditional” wine-growing regions in the state?
Yes, absolutely. Lincoln is a “wine oasis!” It has consistent temperatures, around 90/95 degrees, and is cooler than other parts of the area, dropping nicely during the night. We also have rolling hills, which are perfect for planting vines and an early springtime. In France, I learned about the importance of the terroir, the very earth in which the vines are planted, which was an important factor in establishing my winery in Placer County. Lincoln benefits from an “inversion layer,” which means that, unlike other Californian wine regions, Wise Villa doesn’t suffer from frosts in the winter, which can ruin grape crops and are dreaded by vintners. The grapes grow in an environmental “safe haven” here.
How would you describe your wines?
In Europe, I started to realize the difference between Americans’ and Europeans’ expectations of how wine should taste. Typically, Americans are looking for cocktail-type flavors—sweet and fruity—whereas, typically, Europeans want something they can drink over a long period of time, like an evening meal. We’re aiming for somewhere between the two with ours. We produce 36 different wines and have recreated favorites from across the globe, so there’s something for everyone.
You’ve just gone through the grape harvest. Please tell us about this process.
July to September is grape harvest time—the most laborious time of year. The team works on the hills through the night, from 11 p.m.-3 a.m., hand-picking grapes and carefully collecting them. This is the coolest time of the day, so the grapes are plucked at the perfect temperature for cold fermentation—a critical component of our wines. We have approximately 18 varietals of grapes that are planted according to their needs (temperature, drainage, sunlight, etc.) to produce the optimum crop of grapes. Grapes aren’t picked en masse as may be the case at other wineries where machines are used. Even during the night, each bunch is assessed for ripeness before being picked. The team could be returning to each varietal’s vines over several nights before all the grapes are harvested.
By 8 a.m., at the latest, the grapes are in the winery and the doors are closed to maintain the refrigerated temperature. The grapes are checked every step of the way with bad grapes being thrown away and branches being discarded, as well as “protein” (bugs mostly). With machine harvesting, everything goes in. Mistakes happen and stuff ends up in the mix. Most wines must go through a protein test, as only so much protein is allowed, but we don’t need to with our wine since the harvest is hand-checked from beginning to end. And that whole process happens over many nights—it’s tiring!
With the harvest over, what’s on the horizon?
I really look forward to the events now and meeting customers. Last month, we had the “I Love Lucy” grape stomp, which is a lot of fun and always sells out.
And finally, we have to ask, which is your favorite wine?
I make 36 wines, and my favorite mostly depends on the food, but also on who I’m with, what time of day it is, the temperature, and maybe my view (the ocean? the mountains? my backyard?). Put all those together, and I’ve got a favorite wine!
With the harvest over, what’s on the horizon?
I really look forward to the events now and meeting customers. Last month, we had the “I Love Lucy” grape stomp, which is a lot of fun and always sells out.
And finally, we have to ask, which is your favorite wine?
I make 36 wines, and my favorite mostly depends on the food, but also on who I’m with, what time of day it is, the temperature, and maybe my view (the ocean? the mountains? my backyard?). Put all those together, and I’ve got a favorite wine!
by Caroline Kings
Photo by Samantha May Photography. Top photo by Dante Fontana ©stylemediagroup. Other photos courtesy of Wise Villa Winery.