As I walked through the bustling Folsom strip mall parking lot toward Prohibition Wine Lounge, I expected to be transported to a time when the Volstead Act ruled the country—bartenders and waitstaff in black button-down shirts with ties and suspenders; a small, dark interior accented by a shiny, tin-colored ceiling; and a brick back bar with cases of wine stacked shoulder-high. 

As my eyes adjusted, those images proved to be reality—except the wine was neatly organized in its own glass-enclosed vault. I was greeted warmly and offered a seat at the bar, as the tables for the evening were already reserved.

I started with the roasted beet salad, a well-balanced dish that highlighted the earthy, roasted beets and featured a salty, nutty undertone from the ricotta salata and pistachio vinaigrette. 

Next, I shared the Prohibition Pizza with some new friends seated near me. It’s easy to meet mates when you offer them a slice of thin-crust pie covered in house-made fennel sausage, fontina cheese, broccoli rabe, ricotta and a not-overly-pungent garlic cream sauce. With each bite, I thought to myself, “Italy on a plate!” 

At this point, I had to decide between Chef Scott McNamara’s award-winning scallops, or the risotto with three types of mushrooms and white truffle oil. Never wanting to disappoint new friends, I ordered both. The scallops were served seared and tender atop a creamy cauliflower purée, and showed the chef’s deft hand at combining ingredients without overwhelming the delicate mollusk. 

At the risk of being labeled an Italian rice fascist, let me just state, I know good risotto. I’ve sent overcooked risotto back more often than the patrons of Hell’s Kitchen. What I got from the kitchen was pure perfection, and I was not willing to share, new friends or not. Silky and creamy, yet impeccably al dente, it perfectly showcased the shiitake, chanterelle and oyster mushrooms, and was wonderfully accented by nutty asiago cheese and a light finish of white truffle oil. Bravo! 

My choice of dessert was the tartellette—a colorful swirl of blood orange, key lime and lemon curd with whipped cream and citrus zest in a buttery shortbread crust. One of the most-requested desserts at my house is anything with lemon curd, and Prohibition’s homemade tartellette nailed it. 

Rumor has it they have an exceptional wine selection, which should be no surprise; after all, it’s Prohibition. 

Hours:  Closed Sundays but available for private parties; 3 p.m.-midnight (Monday-Thursday); 3 p.m.-1 a.m. (Friday and Saturday)

Try This: Devilish Eggs, Cheese Board, Pan Seared Scallops, Risotto, Prohibition Tartelette

Alcohol: Beer and extensive wine selection

Tab: $$

Heads-Up: “Wine Lounge Membership” include various discounts and perks; “Tasting Tuesdays” with a featured winery from 5-8 p.m.; Happy Hour (all day on Monday, 3-6 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday); live music on Friday and Saturday from 8-11 p.m.

Prohibition Wine Lounge
2776 East Bidwell Street, Suite 500, Folsom, 916-293-9070

by Lorn Randall   //  Photos by Dante Fontana © Style Media Group