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Koi Garden Restaurant in Roseville

Dec 30, 2016 11:34AM ● By David Norby

Peking Pork Chop

I know that trying a new Chinese restaurant always comes with some trepidation. We all have our favorites, and change is not always a good thing when it comes to General Tso’s Chicken.

Hong Kong-style Beef Chow Mein

 Gone are the buffet servers and sneeze guards of previous restaurants in the same spot. Koi Garden Restaurant has now opened with a diverse menu featuring Chinese, Japanese and some Thai dishes. What's more, all their ingredients are sourced and used thoughtfully; including fresh garlic, grass-fed beef, the finest miso and high-quality cooking wine.

I started my visit with a bowl of Wor Wonton Soup, which in many places is flavorless, soggy and non-descript. The version served to me had a light chicken broth, fresh vegetables, bountiful meats and shrimp, and dumplings that were tender but not overcooked. One of the best I’ve had. 

Next, I sampled the Hong Kong-style Beef Chow Mein, featuring crispy pan-fried egg noodles topped with vegetables and tender, sliced beef in brown gravy. 

Wonton Soup

 My two favorite dishes, however, were the Stir-Fried Eggplant in Szechuan sauce (you can also order it with garlic soy sauce) and the Peking Pork Chop. The eggplant was a stunning presentation—the plum-toned exterior against the golden flesh, dark red sauce and green onions was indeed an eye-catcher—while the sweet and spicy Szechuan sauce proved to be an excellent accompaniment to the delicately roasted aubergine. Their Peking Pork Chop was a welcome surprise. Usually by the time you finish navigating your way through the fat and bone, biting your finger is about all the meat you can find. This was not the case here; in fact, I would order enough of these thin, crunchy, deep-fried chops in their tangy red wine vinaigrette for everyone at the table—twice. 

Stir-Fried Eggplant

 

True story, a distant relative was out for a visit from Texas. While we dined at a prominent local Asian establishment, he uttered this pearl of culinary wisdom: “You can always tell good Chinese food by the pineapple.” Follow my family member’s advice, and leave the Chinese food to folks like my new friends at Koi Garden.   

Koi Garden Restaurant. 1420 East Roseville Parkway, Suite 160, Roseville 916-787-8788.

Hours:  11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. (Sunday); 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 4:30-9 p.m. (Monday-Friday); 11 a.m.-9 p.m. (Saturday)

Try This:  Stir-Fried Eggplant in Szechuan Sauce; Peking Pork Chop

Alcohol:  Beer and wine

Tab:  $ (lunch); $$ (dinner)

Heads-Up:  They deliver and cater

By Lorn Randall   //  Photos By Dante Fontana