I decided to experience Chef-Owner Brian Knadle’s fledgling gastropub Marly and Moo on an unusually warm autumn afternoon. Named after the chef’s daughter, Macy—who was nicknamed “Macy Moo” as a child—and the word “Marly” (defined in Urban Dictionary as a beautiful girl who is shy at first, but once you get close to her you’ll see her fun side”), the restaurant is ideally situated on Sutter Street for a bite and brew after a stroll, hike, pedal or paddle. 

It took me a minute to zero my sights on the establishment—at first glance the exterior has the appearance of a converted office building—but once inside the two-story eatery, its charm begins to take hold, starting with the full-length specials board announcing the “Blue Plate—5 till gone,” and “Prime Rib Sunday.” The bar/taproom, which is strategically situated as you enter, features a full bar and several craft beers; while the dining menu is a rustic, single-page program of Chef Knadle’s inspired creations. 

After being seated, my party ordered the Grilled Avocado—half an avocado grilled in the skin, then stuffed with blue crab in a flavorful but not overpowering Dijon aioli. Talk about a pleasant alternative to the usual doughy-crabless crab cake featured on menus everywhere. The Burrata Di, a creamy, house-made burrata cheese with pesto and blistered tomatoes, was a tribute to in-house preparations and reminiscent of the Mozzarella Al Minuto from Tra Vigne in St. Helena—only better. 

Next came my Fried Chicken Sandwich. I set a high standard for fried chicken, and I have to say, this version was so good it could’ve easily been served on a plate, as an entrée, and not just surrounded by a bun. While a fantastic sandwich, that bird could’ve easily flown solo. We then sampled the Bahn Mi Sandwich. “It’s spicy,” our waitress advised us. And right she was! Understated, it’s a delicious two-alarm fire disguised as a humble Vietnamese sandwich. To counter the heat, I responded with their Shaved Brussels Sprout Salad. Full of toasted almonds and Parmesan in a lemon mustard vinaigrette, hands down, it was my favorite Brussels sprout presentation at a restaurant—fresh and crunchy, with a nice acid balance and none of the funky flavor of poorly prepared Brussels. I’ve already been asked to recreate the dish at home.

It can get a little busy during peak hours, but don’t be deterred: The food, beers, knowledgeable staff and location make for an entirely enjoyable experience.

by Lorn Randall  //  Photos by Dante Fontana © Style Media Group

Marly and Moo, 608 Sutter Street, Folsom, 916-294-7691, marlyandmoo.com.