I dined at Chantara Thai a number of times several years ago, but other than the comfortable location and interior, not much else struck me as…memorable. After my lunch today, however, either new memories have been created, or the cobwebs have been cleared. 

Let’s start with the Angel Wings appetizer. Part wing, part deep-fried Thai chicken sausage, with a convenient built-in handle, they’re ridiculously labor intensive to make (I’ve made them exactly once for that reason) and a rare commodity in most Thai restaurants. Dipped in the accompanying honey-plum sauce made them, literally, finger-lickin’ amazing.

For my next course, I ventured where most folks seldom go: Pla Lard Prik (fish in chili sauce). No big deal? This is a whole, fried fish (pompano) in an extra spicy, garlic loaded, salty-sweet chili sauce. In other words, not for a timid diner. If you don’t mind your plate staring back, or the small amount of effort required to relieve the fish of its precious cargo, the reward is worth the minor nuisances and a good plate to nosh on with friends.

Soon after, came one of Chantara’s specialties: Lamb on the Run, featuring skewered brochettes of lamb and pineapple, marinated in coconut milk and accented with sesame seeds—again served with that spicy, salty, sweet sauce that resonates with many Thai dishes. Make sure to order the lamb medium rare (I think as soon as my server heard medium, she figured I meant the spice level) or it can be slightly dry, but still most enjoyable. The kabobs were served alongside a vibrant salad of green beans, carrots, cabbage and onions—a perfect complement to the meat’s richness. (Many of the entrées can be ordered vegetarian also.)

In the dessert round, I had initially ordered fried bananas and ice cream, which I’m sure would have been delicious. Thankfully, my waitress recommended sticky rice and mango. I wasn’t prepared for the goodness that is warm sticky rice and cool mango; it’s the Thai equivalent of rice pudding and ice cream with some textural differences. No matter how tasty fried bananas and ice cream are, sticky rice and mango wins, hands down, and was a perfect ending to a memorable meal.

Article by Lorn Randall  //  photos by Dante Fontana

Chantara Thai Cuisine, 4361 Town Center Boulevard, Suite 110, El Dorado Hills, 916-939-0389