I pushed the door at Nixtaco, Roseville’s latest taqueria, but it was “pull.” This was the only dissatisfying part of my experience here; between the friendly ambiance, genuine service and authentic quality, this locale has a bright future. The establishment keeps their interior simple and open—an industrial concrete floor connects the open seating to the kitchen, and only a bar and register counter separate the staff from the customers, an intimacy that masters the only environment a taqueria should have: pure, honest and comfortable. And don’t be fooled by the short menu—while its brevity conveniently takes the pressure off of ordering on the spot, each item packs a distinct punch of flavor. With that, a knockout choice for first-timers is the Street Taco Sampler Plate, which includes six, two-bite mini tacos—each stuffed with your choice of beef, shrimp, pork, chicken or vegetables—all for $9. Within five minutes, before I could hardly enjoy the complimentary chips and salsa, the plate was before me. Every other mouthful followed a unique sensual journey, and as I finished, the meal had turned into an experience. My personal favorite, the pork belly taco with tart red onions pickled in lime juice, left my taste buds anxiously awaiting their next trip to Nixtaco…where I’ll surely be ordering the large version. Nixtaco, 1805 Cirby Way, Suite 12, Roseville. 916-771-4165, nixta.co.

— Samuel Mailey // photo by Dante Fontana.