When I was first asked to review an all-you-can-eat (AYCE) sushi restaurant, I wasn’t exactly excited about the prospect. Visions of hours-old California Rolls under a sneeze-guard danced in my head. But from the minute I walked into owner Michael Liu’s newest Hisui Sushi restaurant, my fears were replaced with giddy anticipation. 

The restaurant is new, clean and contemporary. A tasteful mural featuring Hisui’s logo (pronounced HEE-SUU-EE, whichtranslated means jade, according to Google) adorns one wall, while a trio of talented sushi chefs man the crudo bar at the back. No buffet table in sight thankfully, but that doesn’t mean diners can’t order to their stomach’s content from the AYCE lunch menu (Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.) and get it delivered to their table, without having to battle for position in a buffet line. 

Upon being seated, my server immediately brought a bowl of chilled edamame, a nice surprise while I perused the offerings. Opting to order from their main menu, I started with Ebi Sunomono, sliced cucumbers topped with wakame salad and chilled shrimp in sweet vinaigrette that was as refreshing as it was delicious. It was also a portent of the flavorful and artistic dishes that were to follow. 

Next up was Ika Sugata, a miso marinated, char-grilled calamari that was sliced and reassembled from tail to tentacles, resulting in not only stunning presentation, but a perfectly cooked dish, too, thanks to the charred, grill flavor mingling expertly with a hint of miso sweetness. 

Having spent a summer in Oahu, I’ve become a fan of all things poké. Reminiscing, I had no choice but to try Hisui’s. Again I was presented with a beautifully plated rendition of my Hawaiian favorite, featuring thinly sliced cucumber shingled, and topped with raw tuna and avocado salad in a creamy kewpie (Japanese mayo) dressing. It wasn’t as spicy or highly seasoned as some I’ve had on the Islands, but tasty just the same and a sizeable portion.

 At this point, I decided it would be prudent to try a sushi roll, considering that’s why most people come to sushi restaurants. I set my sights on the Hisui Special Roll, packed with real crab, spicy tuna, cream cheese, ahi tuna, salmon, yellowtail, masago and tempura flakes—a spectacular visual and classic umami flavor profile. Talk about a perfect ending to a “light” sushi lunch. Domo arigato!

By Lorn Randall  //  photos by Dante Fontana

Hisui Sushi, 25004 Blue Ravine Road, Suite 107, Folsom, 916-985-7778.