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New American Fare with Folsom Bar & Grill

Mar 29, 2016 05:06PM ● By David Norby

Pork Shashlik

Like many, I prefer family-owned eateries. There’s a passion for every detail that’s seldom duplicated in chain restaurants. When the opportunity presents itself to dine where Mom, Dad and siblings are sharing their recipes and vision, I’ll choose that establishment every time. And so it is at Folsom Bar & Grill (formerly known as Fleur De Lis). The Azari family—Saeid, his wife Fariba, and daughter Sam—took over the long-vacant Zinfandel Grill in 2014 and spent a year renovating to create their New American restaurant.

The menu created by Saeid includes traditional Persian dishes like eggplant dip with pita chips. Reminiscent of baba ganoush, the appetizer was a warm, unctuous amalgam of roasted eggplant, vegetables and garlic, served alongside golden brown pita triangles. Despite Papa Saeid’s recipes being a closely guarded secret, I’ll still be trying my hand at recreating this at home. 

Considering the meat-centric choices ahead of me, I followed the first course with a house salad—chock-full of Persian cucumbers and fresh beets. The savory Mediterranean dressing, scented with oregano, accented the salad impeccably. 

The main course was all about kabobs—cornish game hen marinated in lime and onion; pork shashlik, a tenderloin of pork expertly skewered and flame grilled; and finally koobiteh, seasoned ground beef grilled on a skewer and presented like I’ve never seen before. I’m sure Saeid isn’t going to part with the technique for this one either…

All of the entrées came with a delicate, saffron basmati rice that paired perfectly with the subtle flavors of the Persian kabobs. Additionally, a squeeze of lemon, grilled tomato, and a touch of mint were the flavor catalysts elevating each plate of skewered meats to an extraordinary dining experience. 

For dessert, I recommend sharing a bowl of their saffron ice cream—its unique, saffron-perfume and ideal balance of sweetness is a fitting climax to an exotic evening meal.

The next time you find yourself pondering dining options, stop in to see Saeid, Fariba and Sam to experience the warmth of their family and food.

Folsom Bar & Grill, 705 Gold Lake Drive, Suite 380, Folsom, 916-358-9464, fdlfolsom.com.

Article by Lorn Randall  //  Photos by Dante Fontana