There are many schools of thought when it comes to barbecue, and some folks tend to get a bit dogmatic about it (I’m looking at you, Texas). I try to keep it simple and not worry what the BBQ zealots say. For me, I focus on two key characteristics: texture and taste. If the meat is tender (but not mushy) and the flavor is smoky and pleasing, I’m a happy camper; and I’m excited to report that Piggyback Ribs passes my “rigorous” test with flying colors.

The eatery sports a clean, comfortable dining room with flat-screen TVs and plenty of space. It’s a local, family-owned operation run by Folsom residents Dave and Trish O’Brien. Their approach to barbecue involves a combination of roasting and charbroiling. When I asked if they adhere to a certain school of BBQ, the duo smiled and said that it’s “Dave’s style.” While they focus primarily on ribs—offering up baby back and spare ribs on the pork side, and single or double ribs on the beef side—you can also appease your appetite with a salad, “Piggy Dog” for the kids, finger-lickin’ good sides, draught and bottled beers, wines by the glass, and desserts like cheesecake and chocolate cake.

When I dropped in to pick up a few bites, I grabbed the Piggyback Sampler (baby back ribs, spare ribs and beef ribs with two regular sides), a half rack of baby back ribs (includes two regular sides), and a BBQ chicken salad. The salad was a meal by itself—tender chicken breast with a BBQ-style dressing on top of a good garden salad—while the ribs were everything I hoped for: tender, flavorful, smoky, messy and awesome. The crust was just right, and the juicy pink meat came off the bone with the perfect amount of gentle tugging. The house BBQ sauces were excellent too—the spicy version offering a nice vinegary zing; with or without a little extra sauce, the ribs were terrific. 

As far as sides, the baked beans were smoky and sweet with just a little kick, the shells and cheese were on point, the slaw was sweet and creamy, and you can’t go wrong with a deliciously moist cornbread muffin slathered in butter and honey.

So when you get a hankering for some succulent smoky-sweet perfection, drop into Piggyback and get a half rack…or three. You’ll be happy you did.

by Jeremy B. Neely  //  photos by Dante Fontana

Piggyback Ribs, 25004 Blue Ravine Road, Suite 121, Folsom, 916-985-4711.