Malls all over the country are known for their lackluster food courts, but the Galleria’s casual-upscale Land Ocean has managed to create a buzzing little nook of culinary excellence in a remarkably compact (and impeccably decorated) relaxed-modern space. They even have an impressive patio, which we’ll likely enjoy much more come springtime. 

The main entrance is actually in the mall itself, and in order to benefit from the hustle and bustle of passersby without sacrificing privacy, the design team opted to construct horizontal, shutter-like dark wood slats along the entire perimeter. Starting at the tops of the booths, the slats are just weighty enough to make the space feel intimate, without being claustrophobic. Those walking by are teased with hints of the colorful bar and lively atmosphere within.

On a recent Saturday, my husband and I were quickly seated to peruse the ample menu. Before long, we placed our orders, had signature cocktails in hand, and out came the appetizer—tenderloin Wellingtons. Boasting incredibly supple beef tenderloin and earthy mushrooms in a rich, flakey pastry cup—with brandy peppercorn sauce and a béarnaise drizzle—we were off to a mouthwatering start. 

My husband ordered the namesake “Land Ocean,” featuring a tender six-ounce petite filet mignon, six-ounce cold water lobster tail, fully loaded twice-baked potato, asparagus spears and béarnaise. It was such a great cut of meat that we were thankful the spices were kept low-key, allowing the beef itself to shine.

I went with the spice-crusted ahi tuna (again, the spices were delicate enough to let the freshness of the toothsome tuna come through), served over sautéed spinach and garlic-infused black rice, then topped with an Asian-roasted corn salsa and zippy mango purée. 

We couldn’t resist ordering lava cake for dessert, and were pleasantly surprised that the ultra-dense chocolate cake and chocolate ganache center was a far cry from the Hershey’s-syrup like offerings seen elsewhere. 

Though I never thought I’d say it—dinner at the mall was totally worth it.

By Jennifer Resnicke // photos by Dante Fontana

Land Ocean New American Grill, 1151 Galleria Boulevard, Suite 241, Roseville
916-407-5640, landoceanrestaurants.com